Estimated reading time: 4 minutes
Our eyebrows are one of our most important features. They frame the face, carry a huge amount of expression and have a big influence on how others see us. Get the shape right and your whole face looks more balanced; get it wrong and it can look surprised, stern or tired.
Brow trends come and go, from pencil-thin lines to bold, bushy brows and back again. Any therapist worth their hot wax will tell you that following a trend is rarely the answer. Instead, find the shape that suits your face and features, and work with the brows you have. Remember: eyebrows are sisters, not twins.
In short: choose a brow shape that balances your face shape. Round faces suit a higher, angled arch; square faces suit a softly curved, defined arch; long faces suit straighter brows; heart-shaped faces suit soft, rounded arches; diamond faces suit gentle curves; and oval faces suit a natural, soft arch. Use brow mapping to find where your brows should start, peak and end.
The most flattering brow shape depends on your facial structure. As a general rule, rounded brows soften angular features, and angled brows add structure to rounder faces.
The forehead is slightly wider than the chin, the jawline is gently rounded, and the face is widest at the cheekbones. It is considered the most balanced face shape, so it does not need drastic changes. Soft, natural brows with a moderate arch work best. Avoid very high arches, which can make the face look longer. If you have large eyes and full lips, fuller brows keep things in proportion; with smaller, delicate features, slightly slimmer brows can look more balanced.
A round face is roughly equal in length and width, with soft curves. A higher, more angled arch adds definition and makes the face appear longer and slimmer. Overly rounded arches and short tails emphasise roundness, so aim for a defined peak and a tail that tapers neatly.
Square faces have a strong jawline and a broad forehead, which is a striking, distinctive look. Well-defined brows with a higher, gently curved arch and a longer tail balance the strong angles. Avoid thin brows and drooping tails, which draw the eye downwards.
Long faces are noticeably longer than they are wide, often with a defined jaw and cheekbones. Straighter, slightly longer brows create the illusion of width and balance the length of the face. Avoid high arches, which make the face look longer still.
The forehead is wider than the jawline, with a narrower, more pointed chin. Softly rounded brows of medium thickness soften the angles and balance a wider forehead. Avoid very thin brows and high, sharp arches that draw attention upwards.
The cheekbones are the widest point, with a narrower forehead and jawline and often a pointed chin. A softly curved brow softens the cheekbones and keeps features in proportion. Avoid flat brows and very high, angular arches.
It is not only the shape that counts. Very thin brows can look lost on a broader face, while very thick brows can overwhelm small, delicate features. Getting both the shape and the thickness right is what creates real balance.
Brow mapping is not an exact science, but it is a reliable starting point. Look at the face as a whole: jawline, nose, where your eyes finish and where your temples end. Most people’s natural brow shape already suits them fairly well and simply needs a little definition.
Use a straight eyebrow pencil to find three key points, and mark each one lightly:
Lightly fill in your brows between the marks. Anything outside the outline is what can be removed.
For a clean, defined shape that lasts, eyebrow waxing is hard to beat. A trained therapist can shape both brows quickly and evenly, removing fine hairs that are hard to tweeze. Results typically last three to five weeks.
Do not wax brows if you use retinoids on the face or have recently taken isotretinoin, and avoid makeup, sun exposure and heat on the area for 24 hours afterwards. Find out how to spot a great wax therapist.
Between professional appointments, tweezing is ideal for tidying up strays. When shaping your own brows, clean up rogue hairs rather than attempting a complete reshape.
Brow trends come and go, but your face shape will always tell you which eyebrow shape suits you best. Map your brows, work with your natural shape, and remember that when it comes to removing brow hair, less is more. For a flawless result, book a professional brow wax with a therapist who uses quality products.
Identify your face shape, then choose a brow that balances it: angled arches for round faces, soft curves for square, heart and diamond faces, straighter brows for long faces and a natural soft arch for oval faces.
Waxing gives a clean, even shape that lasts three to five weeks and removes fine hairs, so it is ideal for shaping. Tweezing is best for tidying strays between appointments.
Most people get three to five weeks from an eyebrow wax, depending on how quickly their hair grows.
Stop tweezing, let the hair grow for several weeks, and fill in gaps with a brow pencil or powder. Then have a professional reshape them once there is enough growth.
Looking for a salon that uses Harley Wax? Tell us where you are and we’ll connect you with a qualified therapist near you.
